It was the night when the Earth would pass between the Sun and the Moon, beginning a Total Lunar Eclipse or Blood Moon. My friends and me were on the terrace of our palace hotel, to watch the Moon change from a pearlescent white to an orangish red.

On the other side, the palace glowed, golden in the darkened backdrop of the starlit sky and shooting stars. Perched on the hill, it shone like a beacon to the people of Bundi city.

The hot and dry region of Mewad, in Rajasthan is steeped in tales of opulent palaces, kingdoms and queendoms, battles and wars. Bundi is a small but significant town nestled at the foothills of the Aravali mountains and has its own share of the Mewad way of life. The Garh Palace complex and the Tara Garh, or Star Fort are significant chapters in the history of Bundi.

To defend its honor and position, the Tara Garh fort has witnessed valor and violence, bloodshed, and betrayal.

Metaphorically speaking, the fort could be a stronghold for male dominance. On the other hand, the Garh palace complex could be the divine feminine energy. An eclectic space for artistic expression and appreciation.

Both, need to be experienced and appreciated, for its differences and similarities.

The descendants of royal family who built the palace and the fort, continue to reside in the palace and some parts are off limits to the public.

The next morning, we were to explore the Garh palace complex and hike up the Tara Garh that stood at the top of the hill.

As we entered the Garh Palace gates, we could feel the warm winter sun and the cool air. They were woven together like a soft woolen blanket around us.

Taking advantage of the pleasant weather, we decided to first hike to the Tara Garh Fort and later explore the Garh Palace complex.

The fort far above, cast a forlorn gaze at us, as we began our hike.

A steep pathway with ancient cobblestones, leads the way up, towards the fort.

We evaluated our surroundings, and asked – How difficult could this be? It is just a walk to the top.

As we climbed up, we realized that this was an obstacle course rather than a pleasant walk. The path was steep, and some spots were broken or had no pavement.

The sun decided to betray us, from being a warm friend to a hot fiend, as if testing our resilience. Overgrown trees and their branches took every opportunity for handshakes and hugs.

And how can the monkeys not be in the mix?

They watched us as we walked by, their expectant gaze following us. As soon as we saw them, the phones and water bottles immediately went into our bags.

The cobblestone pathway encircles the hill and was mostly laid down for horses and carriages. Soldiers, staff, and common folks such as us, had to trudge up on foot.

A huge wooden gateway loomed ahead. We could tell this was the entrance, by looking at its big doors and the rusty spikes, a common fortification design.

Breathless, sweating rivers, and walking more than the required 10k steps we had finally reached the top and finished strong.

We entered through a small doorway in the gate, like a camel passing through a needle.

The crumbling fort, holds many secrets – of the lover’s dance and the enemies’ swords. Tunnels and treasure are being searched for and never found. Legends and folklore abound, about headstrong queens, concubines, and their kings.

The spirits in the fort would be whispering these stories and secrets in the wind, if you stood still and listened.

There are no signs or directions when we went, so it was upto us to explore the fort. It resulted in an interesting opportunity of discovery and amazement.

We enthusiastically discovered, small palaces in ruins, stepwells still having stores of water, and a maze of ramparts.

At the very top were the bastions of the fort. Walking there, we were rewarded with panoramic views of the Aravali hills dressed in shades of green, the Jait Sagar lake shimmering in the distance and the blue city of Bundi below.

As we descended towards the Garh palace complex, we exited from the Bhairav Gate and could immediately see a well paved road of stone, to the right.

A passerby mentioned that this was a private road for cars, used by the royal family when they visited. Now that you know there is a road for cars…are you thinking, what we were thinking? Let me know in the comments below 🙂

The Garh palace complex and the Nawal Sagar lake came into view as we descended.

Almost sunstroked and dehydrated we all still agreed, that the hike up was not easy, but worth it.

How to travel

Improve your carbon footprint by taking a train ride from any of the major cities in India and get off at Kota station. Bundi is an hour away by road. Taxis are available outside the railway station.

Best time to visit

The weather is pleasant from Nov to Feb. Hike up the fort early morning, followed by a visit to the Garh palace complex.

For the hike – Wear comfortable cottons, walking shoes, sunscreen and a cap. Carrying water with you for the hike is essential as it gets hot and there is no water available on the way or at the fort.

If time is not a constraint, then complete the hike on day one and visit the palace on day two. This gives you ample time to explore both places as per your satisfaction. Not to reveal too much, but trust me, you will be happy to have given individual attention to both places on different days.

The fort and palace open around 9am. Check for holidays before you visit.

Remote work from Bundi is possible due to several budget and high end options available. Most stays, cafes and restaurants are near the Nawal Sagar lake and they have wifi.

What else can you experience

The Garh palace complex of course. If you are short on time, skip the fort and visit the Chitrashala and Badal Mahal rooms, in the palace.

My upcoming posts detail out more information. Read more about them here….

An artistic exploration – Chitrashala and Badal Mahal