Lake Sevan is a freshwater lake, located at almost a 2 hour drive from Armenia’s capital city Yerevan.

It is a perfect weekend destination for locals and tourists.

Cafes and beach bars dot the shore offering a variety of activities.

Visitors can lounge by the lake with food and drinks. They can indulge in a relaxed boat ride and watch the mountains and sun meet over the horizon. The adventurous can go swimming or engage in water sports.  

Lake Sevan is a popular tourist destination today, but, it had a murky past.

During the Soviet era, the water of the lake was used irresponsibly, for irrigation and to generate hydro electricity.

The lake levels depleted by almost 60 feet, leaving the lake at around 60% full. The ecosystem took a hit and several species of birds and fish were affected.

With the end of the Soviet regime, it took a while for the lake to ‘normalize’. But, can Lake Sevan go back to its pristine past?

Traveling back several centuries before the Soviets, Lake Sevan was a pristine freshwater body. A strong ecosystem thrived, and trout and other fish were found in abundance.

An island with a hill overlooked the lake and could be accessed only by boat.

In the 9^th century, someone thought, this was a perfect spot to construct a monastery and a small prison. Over time, the monastery expanded to add, churches, a watch tower and other buildings. Over time the complex took its name after the lake, and came to be known as Sevanavank Monastery.

Two churches remain today – Surp Arakelots meaning the “Holy Apostles” and Surp Astvatsatsin meaning the “Holy Mother of God”. Surp in Armenian translates as Holy.

The architecture of both structures are in the form of a cross. Black volcanic stone has been used in the construction.  Both churches are connected by maze like paths.

Several monks were part of the church complex till 1930. After the last monk left the complex was deserted and left to the elements.

Due to the water draining from the lake, the island today, is accessible by road. Steps lead up to the monastery.

The climb is easy. It took me between 15 to 30 mins to reach the top. I made a few stops to take in the picturesque sights.

On reaching the top, a winding path gradually unfolds to reveal, spectacular panoramic views of the ruins and the lake.

My first stop was the church with the khachkars. They were arranged in a chaotic mess near the entrance of the church.

A khachkar is a carved stone cross, generally found outside churches. These are considered sacred in the Armenian culture.  

I walked higher up the hill, to get a magnified view of my surroundings.

The strong winds push me back. The chill makes me reach for my stole. But, I can’t take my eyes off nature’s sound and light show unfolding before me.

I could see the lake is hemmed by magnificent mountains and dramatic clouds fill the skies above. The air is filled with the scent of wild flowers and carpets of windswept grass cover the hill.

I allow myself to be carried away by the wind and be hypnotized by the views.

As the sun begins to set, the lake shimmers in shades of emerald and aqua. The skies are streaked with white and gold. I hear, a fading birdsong somewhere in the ruins as the birds fly back home. The grasses and flowers rustle, as the wind lends a low pitched howl.  

This deeply immersive experience was almost spiritual for me. A sudden chill embraces me, and brings me out of my trance.

Twilight was approaching in the distant mountains. A single star appears, and reluctantly I start my descent. As I walk down, I overheard one of the visitors mention something interesting. Lake Sevan is also called the Blue Pearl of Armenia. I believe it is!