Uzbekistan gained its independence after the dissolution of the Soviet Republic in 1991. Even though it was free from Communist rule, the iron curtain continued to keep the new country hidden from the world.

This country is shrouded in an aura of mystery due to the ancient Silk Route which passed through it. Its inaccessibility also made it exotic.

A change in the government policy, allowed visitors since the beginning of the 21 century.

Remnants of the Soviet regime are still found throughout the country. The architecture and way of life are legacies from the occupation. Russian is interspersed with the local Uzbek languages especially among the older generation.

Travelling with friends, we journeyed sections of the Uzbek Silk Route, through its efficient rail network.

The popular destinations of Tashkent, Bukhara, and Samarkand, are well connected by vintage passenger trains and modern high-speed trains.

We experienced the old-world charm of the Soviet era sleepers and appreciated the comfortable modern high-speed trains.  

The subway system and trams could not be experienced due to time constraints, but were found to be interesting and worth a mention here.

Soviet Era Sleepers

Our travel, from Urgench (Khiva) to Bukhara was an incredible journey, on a very Sovietesque passenger train. As the train arrived on the platform, I was transported into a black and white movie spy movie.

The train was green in color with large sealed windows. An interesting coat of arms, was embellished outside the coach and another board mentioned the origin and destination stations in Uzbek.

A guard, stood at the door to escort us ladies, up on train. He handed over the bags and suitcases into the coach. Sadly, we were not dressed the part as in the movies – red lipstick, a jacket and skirt, a hat, and pumps were missing. Not to forget a lovely handbag.

Perhaps Scarlett O’hara would perform this role flawlessly.

The train inside was clean, with berths for sleeping. Secret compartments were found beneath the lower berths, to store the bags. I could imagine Soviet spies, hiding inside them.

The windows were sealed to block the harsh winter cold, but in summer I guess it would be stuffy.  The journey would take around 8 hours and we prepared for the long ride.

Snacking was imperative and we brought some local snacks from the station store. The coach attendant offered us tea bags, clean sheets, and pillows.

Hot water for the tea, was got from old-fashioned water boilers at the end of the coach. An inheritance from the occupation.

The train picked up a comfortable speed as it passed through the caramel hued sands of the Kyzylkum desert. We saw local villages, factories, and endless sand dunes. The scenery was pretty much static.

Locals were actively passing through the coach either to chat with other passengers or refill their tea kettles with hot water. Someone had brought lunch. It was an elaborate spread of bread (naan), fruit, cheese, and some meat. They were happy to share their meal with us.

Vendors walked down the aisles selling trinkets, food, and drinks.

The endless desert and swaying of the train put us in a dreamy state. Long naps were meant to be. We reached Bukhara on time and were welcomed once again with the officers ready to disembark us from the train.

Afrosiyob

The modern high speed Afrosiyob connects Bukhara, Samarkand, and Tashkent.

Riding at a speed of almost 160 kms an hour meant that we could reach our destination in 2 to 3 hours. The superfast Afrosiyob are clean and the hosts serve and sell snacks and drinks.

On our way from Samarkand to Tashkent we saw vistas of green spread across the country side. The highlight was spotting the snow-capped mountains in Tajikistan, passing us very quickly!!

Kosmonavtlar Metro

The metro stations in Tashkent are a sublime expression of art and design. Visitors can have an immersive experience by visiting all or some of the stations which showcase these unique works of art.

One of the oldest subway systems in Central Asia, each metro line has its own theme. The older ones are distinctly an artistic expression from the Soviet era.

The blue walls of the Kosmonavtlar station, feature the cosmonauts from the USSR Space Age!!

I wondered if the cosmonauts ever visited here.

Insta Tramway

A popular tourist destination, Samarkand has several transport options.

Seeing an electric tram on the busy streets was certainly an instaworthy photo op.  These trams were decommissioned in Tashkent and brought to Samarkand.

Stories from the Silk Route – Vintage and Modern Travel in Uzbekistan

Our journey using the vintage and modern transport revealed some pleasant facets of this young country.

Its people are friendly, warm and welcoming. The legacy of the Silk Route, the Soviet rule, and its present modernism, coexist, creating an exquisite pattern like the Ikkat fabric.

Proud of their cultural heritage, they want the world to acknowledge it and help them preserve it.